Selles-sur-Cher

1. History

Selles-sur-Cher is a goat cheese whose origins date back to the Middle Ages in the Berry region, where goat farming has historically been very present[4]. Although the cheese-making tradition is ancient, archives provide little information about its early beginnings, and it was not until the early 19th century that a farmer from Selles attested to having always made this type of cheese, as did her mother before her[1]. Originally, it was purely domestic production made by farm women as a complement to their household activities, intended for family consumption[5]. Its commercial development dates from the 19th century, when specialized collectors, called coquetiers, began gathering fresh cheeses from farms to age them before selling[8]. The main collection and resale center was established in Selles-sur-Cher, which explains why the cheese took this name[1]. The Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) was recognized in 1975[7], and the Protected Designation of Origin (AOP) was obtained in 1996[8].

2. Physical characteristics

Selles-sur-Cher is easily recognizable by its characteristic truncated cone shape and gray ash-covered rind[5]. It is a cheese made from whole raw goat's milk, with a soft white paste[8]. Its distinctive rind is obtained by coating with vegetable ash (charcoal), an ancient practice that originally served to protect the cheese and regulate its aging[4]. The cheese displays more or less blue surface molds[8]. After molding in its famous truncated cone molds, the cheese is drained, salted, and then covered with vegetable ash[5].

3. Taste profile

Selles-sur-Cher offers a remarkable balance between creamy lactose notes and more pronounced goaty flavors depending on aging[4]. Initially mild and creamy, it gains character with aging, developing goaty and hazelnut notes[5]. Connoisseurs consider its optimal tasting period to be around twenty days of aging, when the creamy sweetness and hazelnut aromas are perfectly balanced[5]. The minimum aging period is at least ten days[5]. Its texture is creamy and its flavors evolve over time[5].

4. Production zone and period

The production area of Selles-sur-Cher covers the Cher valley and extends across the departments of Loir-et-Cher, Indre, and Cher[5]. These sandy and clay-sandy soils, combined with a climate favorable to goat farming, shape the cheese's identity[5]. The goats find rich and varied feed from pastures containing more than 400 plant species, some of which are protected[5]. Production can consist of either dairy or farmhouse cheeses[9]. The cheese can be produced year-round, although the optimal tasting period is generally in spring and summer.

5. Certification

Selles-sur-Cher received its Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) recognition in 1975[7], consecrating the efforts undertaken by regional producers[7]. The Protected Designation of Origin (AOP) was obtained in 1996[8], offering European protection to the cheese. The appellation was established in 1975 with only three to four producers, before experiencing progressive structuring of the supply chain[10]. Today, Selles-sur-Cher is among the major French references in raw milk goat cheese[10].